The Ghost of Sanjauli Road
When I was a kid, I heard some ghost stories, and that amused me. As I grew up, I began not to believe the stories. For the next 50 years, I read about them and heard about them, but because they were never trusted, I never believed them. Not until, in 2007, I went to visit my brother in law (my cousin sister’s husband) Des Raj*, who lived and worked in Sanjauli throughout his life. After a few pleasantries and one of the best Pahari lunches, we settled down for gossip. I often visited them, although not recently, since I live in Canada. Quite a few times, I would pay them a short visit when I am in Shimla. During a short and quick visit, except for family discussions, we never had time to talk about anything else. This time in 2007, Des Raj and I spoke extensively. He wished to know about Canada and I wanted to know about his welfare. From the appearance, they were a prosperous lot. Their kids, all the reputable businessmen had built palatial houses. They took over the family business and expanded it multifold. My cousin sister passed away a few years ago and Des Raj in his late seventies welcomed visitors and relatives for a gossip and good times. This time he asked me to stick around for old times' sake. I didn't want to let him down and after a few apologies, I said yes and a message was sent to Shimla, my in-laws. After dinner the conversation switched to the already known stories of ghosts which were so lively at my younger age.
* name changed
These stories, which were real experiences, linked to 4 ghosts that were wondering about Lakkar Bazaar to Sanjauli Road. This road used to be a beautiful woodland walk and pleasant also in the fifties. As you passed the Snowdown Hospital, you came across at a distance in the valley, the Walker Hospital, in a very well positioned meadow. Then you walked past the pump house, which I believe pumped water to the upper reaches of Shimla like Jakhoo etc. Later you walked past the BT Training College (now the Government College for Boys), then you knew that Sanjauli is just round the next curve. I preferred this walk. In previous years, you could cycle to Sanjauli in a rental bike (only 2 Annas per trip). If you were returning from the city at night past 10.00pm, cycling was a preferred means. In case you walked your way at night, then it was well known that you will run into the resident ghosts of the road. That's what happened in the 1950's.
At that time, the Snowdon Hospital had just opened, so the road to Sanjauli or Lakkar Bazaar was mostly empty, except for some day walkers who were going to the hospital or going further to Sanjauli. It usually was deserted at night. After nightfall, people returning from Shimla travelled in groups and mainly used a bike. And so my story begins:
Des Raj in his younger days, together with boys of his age will come to Regal Cinema (now defunct) watch a late show and at midnight or so, cycle back to Sanjauli. I am sure their parents did not like that, but if they had gone after a full day’s of work, then they were allowed but pre-warned about running into ghosts while returning. Therefore, the parents' advice was that, if you need to go, then stay in a group.
Every time they passed the pump house around midnight, fearing ghosts, they pretended not to look in that direction. Still abnormal lights will blink inside the small building and voices could be heard. They will quickly move on and pretend that nothing has happened. Since they were a group of 3 or 4, hence cycle past without looking was normal. At home, they did not tell anyone, for fear of being prevented from leaving next time. This did not happen every time, but did happen sometime. The movie they had watched an hour earlier had something to do with it. Those scary scenes from the movie invariably began to flash into their head and the pump station became the real life plot. Often they were distracted and sometimes frightened with sights and sounds inside the pump station. Unmindful they will continue and reach home.
Once returning after a movie, they got off the bicycles a few hundred feet before the pump house because of the wind and pushed the bicycle until the road levelled a bit. As Des Raj said, he put his foot on the paddle to get on the bicycle and looked up, - there were four characters in white clothes standing on the road, their faces and features could not be seen clearly. Those images lasted four or five seconds. As they paddled past, nothing could be seen. ..... just nobody. His friends didn't see anything, so they all continued. It's not quite right, his friends had come across this experience earlier. Even this time, they had experienced, but not as much as Des Raj did. He called his friend and did not say anything other than to reassure himself that there was mutual support. Same voices and lights were emanating from the pump house. They cycled past as fast as they could without waiting, making sure all four of them are together. Then seconds later when they were 50 yards further from the pump house, they could feel that they are being chased from the mountain side by somebody calling them by name. There was only one thing left for them to do, that is to cycle as fast as they could and reach the ‘Rest Shed’ about half a mile ahead on the road side. Here they stopped and got off their bikes and looked back. There was nothing in the yonder. Did they imagine something or the ghosts were really chasing them just a few minutes earlier, they wondered? They patted each other for making out of the ghost pit unscathed and continued further to their homes. They never shared that experience with their elders at all.
Eventually, the local temple priest explained that this was not the first time it had happened. Sanjauli is the sole Hindu cremation site in Shimla. During the day time when the dead bodies are being carried for cremation, they break the earthen pitcher as part of the ritual to let Soul escape and peacefully depart the body. This pitcher is broken near or about the pump house. The priest rationalized that the wandering spirits are in and around the pump house only and have been there for ages. They never bother anybody, but the fear is still there if you knew that they were there.
Now I kept listening to the story that scared me too, and I decided not to take a late night walk on this road. He continued by saying that these ghosts/spirits reside these days in the new hospital. People over there have experienced them, but they have not harmed anybody. People in the hospital have at night experienced shutting doors, disappearing items and the staircase noises. Experiences like these scare people, hence they venture out less at night.
What is the level of credibility of these stories, - I do not know? But my brother-in-law is a highly credible person (he passed away four years back). Modern science debunks these stories, but our mind is unable to get rid of them.
Cheers.......